Ashly Brady

Growing up in Oregon, I never realized surfing was a reality for me despite having the coast only a couple hours away. I remember the first time I went surfing, I did surfing lessons in Hawaii and instantly fell in love. I mean it wasn’t hard for me to fall in love with a water sport, I have always been someone who loved being in or around water, it is where I feel the most at home. I begged my parents to leave me in Hawaii with some money so I could teach myself to surf and then teach others. They clearly didn’t support that; I mean I don’t blame them I was twelve.

Once we returned to Oregon after vacation, surfing went back to something I just dreamt about, and I went back to focusing on basketball. That is until I moved to Arizona in 2019 and worked for a family who enjoyed surfing. Paul the dad, grew up in California surfing, so we talked about it from time to time and currently they are in the process of creating a wave technology surf park in Arizona which is so dope. I had the opportunity to learn to surf from Paul but I declined because my nerves got in the way and I didn’t want to embarrass myself.

When I moved back to Oregon the summer of 2021, my brother and his girlfriend took me surfing for my birthday and I fell in love again. Even though I let my nerves stop me from learning with Paul, I knew this was something I really wanted to do, and I wasn’t going to let my nerves get in the way of trying something I’ve alway dreamt of doing.

That first time going out on the Oregon Coast was very different compared to learning in Hawaii, I didn’t have an instructor this time and the waves were more intense. It didn’t help that I was also so eager to stand up that I was trying to ride every wave and spent most of my time getting smacked and dragged by the waves. Although, I was impatient and consuming a lot of salt water that day, I knew this was a sport I wanted to invest in. I excitedly waited for this summer so I could get back on the water and practice. I haven’t made it to the coast as much as I’d hope this summer, but I have been able to go a few times and I’m already improving. I’ve taken a different approach this year by renting a bigger board, being more selective with wave choice, learnt how to get over waves easier and much more. I’m not sure how much more I’ll be able to make it out there before the summer ends but over the fall and winter I am going to implement exercises that will help make me stronger and prepared for surfing next summer. During that time I also want to purchase my own gear since I’m renting right now. I’m motivated and excited to train for a specific sport since I haven’t trained for something since I stopped playing basketball. I’m looking forward to seeing the progress made from this year to next year.

I know it can seem nerve racking or intimidating to start something new especially when you spent most of your life doing something else, or might feel like you are too old now to do it but the reality is your not! You can totally decide to try a new sport, hobby or whatever at whatever age. Sure you might feel silly but so what? Do it anyway! You never know what will come from it if you don’t try it, you might realize it’s the best thing you have ever done for yourself and if not that’s okay too but at least you tried and showed up for yourself!